Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
